River Crossing vs. Calving Season: The Honest Truth About the Tanzania Great Migration
By Karlis A. from GetSafariTours

EXPERT SPOTLIGHT
Emmanuel Mnyenye
2nd Generation Guide | 3,000+ Days in the Bush
- 10+ Years Professional Guiding (360+ Successful Safaris)
- 2nd-Generation Guide (Trained from childhood by veteran guide Allen Mnyenye)
- BSc in Economics & Statistics (Bringing analytical precision to safari logistics)
- Head Guide and Director at GetTogetherAdventures.com
"We take nothing but photos and leave nothing but footprints"

By GetSafariTours.com | Featuring Expert Guide Emmanuel
If you are looking into a Tanzania Great Migration safari, you have probably seen the photos. The massive herds plunging into the water. The crocodiles snapping. The dust, the noise, the chaos. That is the "River Crossing," and for many, it is the only reason they fly to East Africa.
But here is the reality check that most glossy travel brochures skip: seeing a river crossing is a gamble. You can drive all the way to the Northern Serengeti, park by the Mara River for three days straight, and see nothing but wildebeest standing around, drinking water, and walking back up the bank.
"It is a game of chance," says Emmanuel, a professional safari guide who has spent over 3,000 days in the Tanzanian bush. "We don't force nature."
However, there is another season. It is less famous on Instagram but offers something the river crossing cannot: a guarantee. This is the Calving Season. It happens when the herds turn the southern plains into a sea of animals so dense they look like "ants scattered across the land."
So, should you bet on the drama of the river in July, or go for the sheer scale of the herds in February? We sat down with Emmanuel to get the honest, on-the-ground breakdown to help you decide.
The Migration Cycle: It’s a Loop, Not an Event
First, let's clear up a common confusion. The migration isn't a single event that happens on a Tuesday in August. It is a constant, year-round movement of 1.5 to 2 million animals (mostly wildebeest, zebras, and gazelles) chasing rain and grass.
"One should know exactly when they want to come because this is a whole year thing," Emmanuel explains.
The animals move in a clockwise circle:
- Dec–March: They congregate in the South (Ndutu/Serengeti) to give birth.
- April–May: They move West and Central for the "rut" (mating).
- June–July: They head North (Grumeti).
- July–Oct: They hang out in the North, crossing the Mara River back and forth.
- Nov: They head South again.
Your experience depends entirely on where you are and when you are there.
Option A: The River Crossing (July–October)
This is the peak season. The prices are highest, the parks are busiest, and the expectations are massive. The herds are in the Northern Serengeti (Kogatende) and the Masai Mara in Kenya.
The Reality: It’s a Waiting Game
The River Crossing is spectacular, but it requires patience. The wildebeest are skittish. If the wind changes, or if they spot a lion, or if the lead animal just gets cold feet, a herd of 5,000 can turn around and walk away from the water.
Emmanuel is blunt about this:
"Catching the crossing is a game of chance. For example, during the river crossing season, we expect them at the Mara River. But you might go there, find the wildebeest close to the river waiting to cross, but they won't cross. It’s nature. We don't force nature. Sometimes you might wait for hours or days."
What a "River Crossing" Day Looks Like
To see a crossing, you usually leave your camp at 6:00 AM with a packed breakfast and lunch. You drive to a crossing point along the Mara River. Then, you park.
And you wait.
You might sit in the vehicle for four, five, or six hours. It gets hot. It gets dusty. This is where Emmanuel’s packing advice comes in handy: bring a dust mask or buff. When the crossing finally happens, it is chaotic and dusty, and you will be glad you have something to cover your face.
The Strategy: Split Your Trip
If you are dead set on seeing a crossing, don't bet your entire trip on it. Emmanuel recommends splitting your time.
"We advise clients to have two nights in the central Serengeti and two nights in the North."
This way, if the river is quiet, you still get incredible big cat sightings in the Central Serengeti (Seronera), which is famous for its leopards and lions.
Option B: The Calving Season (January–February)
While the North is about the "maybe," the South is about the "definitely."
From late December through March, the herds settle in the short-grass plains of the Southern Serengeti and the Ndutu Conservation Area. They come here for the volcanic soil, which is rich in minerals that pregnant and nursing mothers need.
The "Ants" Metaphor
When asked to describe the scene in the south, Emmanuel used a specific image:
"We are talking about a stretch of area... have you ever seen ants scattered in a small area? With the numbers? A lot. This is what we will be looking at... 100, if not thousands of wildebeest. You reach a point where, if you look on all sides, it's like animals are coming around you everywhere."
Why It’s a "Sure Thing"
Unlike the river crossing, which depends on the animals making a decision to swim, the calving season just requires them to be there. And they are always there.
"We are certain that the wildebeest will definitely come to the southern part of the Serengeti... For that, we know certainly they will come there," Emmanuel says.
It’s Not Just Cute Babies
Yes, seeing a baby wildebeest take its first steps minutes after birth is amazing. But where there are vulnerable babies, there are hungry predators.
February in Ndutu is arguably the best time in Africa to see cheetahs. The grass is short, so you can see them sprinting. Lions and hyenas are also everywhere. It is a time of plenty for the carnivores, and the action is constant.
Logistics: North vs. South
Here is how the two options compare on a practical level for planning your Tanzania safari.
1. Cost and Crowds
- The River Crossing (North): This is the most expensive time to visit. Camps in the Northern Serengeti are limited and charge premium rates. It can also get crowded. When a crossing starts, guides radio each other, and you might end up with 20+ vehicles lining the riverbank.
- The Calving Season (South): Still high season, but generally slightly cheaper than the peak of July/August. There is more accommodation available ranging from mobile camps to lodges.
2. The Drive vs. The Fly
- North: It is far. Driving from Arusha to Kogatende takes two long days. Most people fly into the Kogatende airstrip, which adds cost.
- South: Ndutu is accessible. You can drive from Arusha in about 5-6 hours, passing through the Ngorongoro Conservation Area on the way.
3. Off-Roading (The Secret Weapon)
This is a major difference.
- North (National Park): In the Serengeti National Park, you must stay on the designated roads. If a kill happens 200 meters away, you have to watch with binoculars.
- South (Conservation Area): A large part of the calving takes place in the Ndutu Conservation Area. Here, off-road driving is allowed. If Emmanuel spots a cheetah hunting, he can drive the vehicle right up to the action (respectfully, of course). This gets you much closer to the animals.
The "Green Season" Alternative (April–May)
If you are on a budget and hate crowds, there is a third option: the Green Season. This is when the heavy rains come. The herds are usually in the Central or Western Serengeti.
Pros:
- Prices drop significantly (up to 50% off).
- You might be the only car for miles.
- The landscape is lush and green (great for photography).
Cons:
- It rains. The roads can get muddy and tricky.
- The grass is tall, making it harder to spot lions and leopards.
- The animals are more spread out.
Emmanuel notes that rain dictates everything: "They might go there late or they might go there early depending on the rains and the food for the animals."
Insider Tips for Your Migration Safari
Regardless of which season you choose, here are a few tips from Emmanuel to make the day go smoother.
1. The 6-to-6 Rule
A safari day is long. "A typical safari day involves about 12 hours, from 6:00 AM to 6:00 PM," says Emmanuel. Do not plan on sleeping in. The predators are most active at dawn.
2. Don't Go Back for Lunch
If you are chasing the migration, you cannot drive back to the lodge for a hot lunch. The herds move, and you don't want to miss the action because you were eating a salad in the dining tent.
"We start the game drives right from the camp... having our picnic lunch... throughout the day we will be looking for wildlife."
3. Pack the Right Adapters
It sounds small, but Emmanuel sees it all the time. People bring the wrong plugs. Tanzania uses the UK style (Type G). Bring a universal multi-plug so you can charge your camera batteries, phone, and power bank all at once in the evenings.
4. Safety First
Remember, the camps—especially the migration camps—are unfenced.
"You might wake up and find lions close to your camp," Emmanuel warns. This isn't a zoo. When you are in the camp, listen to the guides. Don't walk around alone at night. And if an animal comes close to the car, stay quiet and don't make sudden movements.
Summary: Which One Should You Choose?
Here is the quick breakdown to help you decide.
Go for the River Crossing (July-Oct) if:
- You want the "bucket list" dramatic shot.
- You are patient and can handle waiting in a car for hours.
- You have the budget to fly to the North.
- You accept there is a chance you won't see a crossing.
Go for the Calving Season (Jan-Feb) if:
- You want to see massive numbers of animals guaranteed.
- You want to see baby animals.
- You want to see predators hunting (cheetahs/lions).
- You want to get closer to the action (off-road driving in Ndutu).
- You prefer a slightly more accessible location.
Conclusion
The Tanzania Great Migration is impressive no matter when you see it. Whether you are watching a mother wildebeest defend her calf in February or watching a herd brave the currents of the Mara River in August, you are witnessing one of the oldest natural cycles on earth.
Emmanuel’s advice is simple: manage your expectations and trust your guide. "We take nothing but photos and leave nothing but footprints."
If you want the drama, go North but be patient. If you want the sheer scale and certainty, go South for the calving.
Ready to plan your trip?
At GetSafariTours.com, we connect you with local experts like Emmanuel who know exactly where the herds are. Contact us today to start building your custom migration itinerary.
FAQs
1. When is the absolute best time for the Great Migration?
There is no single "best" time; it depends on what you want. For river crossings, July to October is best. For seeing the massive herds congregating and giving birth, January and February are best.
2. Is the Mara River crossing guaranteed?
No. As Emmanuel puts it, it is a "game of chance." Herds can stand at the river's edge for days without crossing. To increase your odds, stay at least 3-4 nights in the Northern Serengeti.
3. Can I see the migration in June?
Yes. In June, the migration is usually in the Western Corridor (Grumeti). They also cross the Grumeti River here. It is less famous than the Mara River crossing but still spectacular and much less crowded.
4. Is the Calving Season just for seeing babies?
No. The Calving Season attracts the highest density of predators. It is the best time to see cheetahs, lions, and hyenas hunting, as the abundance of easy prey (calves) draws them in.
5. How far in advance should I book?
Migration camps are small and popular. For July-August (Crossing) and February (Calving), you should book 8 to 12 months in advance to get the best locations.
References
- Primary Source: Expert Interview
- Source: Emmanuel, Professional Tanzania Safari Guide (10+ Years Experience).
- Serengeti National Park (Official)
- Title: Serengeti National Park - Official Tourism Portal
- Organization: Tanzania National Parks Authority (TANAPA)
- Link: https://www.tanzaniaparks.go.tz/national-parks/serengeti-national-park
- Ngorongoro Conservation Area Authority (Official)
- Title: Ndutu Plains & The Migration
- Organization: Ngorongoro Conservation Area Authority (NCAA)
- Link: https://www.ncaa.go.tz/destinations/ndutu-plains
- UNESCO World Heritage Centre
- Title: Serengeti National Park World Heritage Site Profile
- Organization: UNESCO
- Link: https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/156/
- Frankfurt Zoological Society
- Title: Serengeti Conservation & Wildlife Monitoring
- Organization: Frankfurt Zoological Society (FZS)
- Link: https://fzs.org/en/projects/tanzania/serengeti-conservation/
Sources
- https://www.tanzaniaparks.go.tz/
- https://legendsandlegaciesofafrica.org/frankfurtzoologicalsociety.php
- https://fzs.org/en/programs/tanzania/serengeti-ecosystem/
- https://www.simbavati.com/the-great-migration/
- https://kilimanjaroheroes.com/river-crossings-vs-calving-season-whats-the-best-great-migration-event-to-see-on-serengeti-safari/
- https://www.ncaa.go.tz/
- https://serengetinationalparkafrica.com/serengeti-historical-sites-guide-unesco-world-heritage-sites-in-serengeti/#!/
- https://www.serengetiparktanzania.com/information/serengeti-as-a-unesco-world-heritage-site/
- https://africaadventurevacations.com/serengeti-national-park-is-a-world-unesco-heritage-site/
- https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/156/
- https://proudtanzaniasafaris.com/how-the-frankfurt-zoological-society-works-to-protect-the-serengeti/
- GetTogetherAdventures.com
Book your next Africa Safari now
Find exclusive safari tours in every corner of Africa!
Most popular safari tours
Our customer top picks of safari experiences to get you started
3-Day Private Serengeti & Ngorongoro Safari
4-Day Private Safari in Arusha & Ngorongoro
5-Day Private Arusha, Tarangire and Ngorongoro Safari
6-Day Tarangire, Ngorongoro Crater & Serengeti Safari
8-Day Tarangire, Manyara, Ngorongoro & Serengeti Safari
7-Day Big Five Safari Adventure Northern Tanzania

Plan your unforgettable safari with GetSafariTours
Inquire without obligations
Explore your personalized safari ideas freely; get a custom proposal with no pressure or commitment to book.
Best price guarantee
Receive unbeatable value, ensuring you won't find the same tailor-made itinerary for less elsewhere.
Only verified tour partners
Travel safely and enjoy exceptional experiences with our hand-picked, high-quality local partners in Africa.
Need help choosing the right Safari for you?
Leave your email, our expert-agents will help you find your perfect adventure!

















































